Ann and I are touring again. This time it's the Sturgis Rally and Harley-Davidson 105th Anniversary celebrations in the USA. The Ultra was crated and shipped several weeks ago and should be waiting for us in Long Beach, California when we arrive on Tuesday 29th July. Over the next six weeks we'll be travelling across the USA from LA via Sturgis, the Rockies, the Great Lakes and Milwaukee, and then back to LA on Route 66.
5 AM. The alarm has just gone off. Time to get up and start this adventure. Off to the station to catch the train to the airport. Chatted with commuter friends from shared train trips in and out of Brisbane over the past ten years. (Hi Karen, Val, Claudia and Ian.)
We change at Bowen Hills for the airport train. Fifteen minutes later we're at Brisbane International Airport and soon checking in at the Qantas counter. An upgrade to business class for both of us is much appreciated. Thanks Qantas Frequent Flyer program.
Friends Tim and Magda meet us at the airport to wish us well and say goodbye. We pass through customs and security. Check out the duty free, and head to the Qantas lounge to wait for boarding to be called. We settle on the plane. The captain announces a problem with the auxilliary power unit. We take off about an hour late.
Nothing special about the flight. The usual movies, in-flight entertainment system breakdowns and reboots, too much food, broken laptop power outlets, and friendly service from the cabin crew.
We land at LAX about an hour late. Pass through immigration and customs without any problems until Ann realises that she's left her handbag on the plane. Find a Qantas agent who calls another agent on the plane, and the bag is soon recovered and in Ann's hands. Gay from Heavy Duty Magazine is waiting for us in the arrivals area. Other riders soon join us, and then it's off to the bus to pick up the Melbourne travellers arriving at Terminal 4 before we head to the hotel.
Check-in. Quick freshen up. Then wait out front of the hotel for the bus to take us to collect the bike while Ann has a snooze in the hotel room. As we're waiting for the bus the ground begins to move - it's an earthquake! Turned out be a 5.4 scale quake centered near Pomona - the largest in this area for about ten years. No damage around us. The chandeliers in the hotel lobby were swinging pretty wildly though, and Ann says that the fifth floor room was swaying quite a bit. At least she didn't run down the fire stairs and end up on the street wrapped in just a towel like one panicked oriental gentleman who had to make his way past a large group of amused Harley riders to get back into the hotel.
The bus finally arrives and we're off to collect the bike. A bit of work required to put it back together. Refuel on the way back to the hotel so ready for the ride to Las Vegas tomorrow. Hungry, tired and ready for a good night's sleep.
Wow! It was hot today. The official weather report says today's high in Las Vegas was 105 F (41 C). The temperature gauge on the bike peaked at 118 F (48 C) on the road between Barstow and Las Vegas.
Started the day with a short ride to West Coast Choppers and had breakfast at Cisco Burger, the fast food restaurant owned by WCC's Jesse James.
We snaked our way north-east out of Los Angeles between trucks and SUVs in the morning rush hour traffic. The 605 must be one of the worst freeways in the world. Riding the 605 is like sailing a boat into a large ocean swell. The rises and falls are too far apart to be called bumps or corrugations, and too small to be called hills. We were both glad to get onto the 210 and then the Interstate 15.
Stopped at Barstow for fuel, a drink and a bite to eat. Took off the leather jackets and cooled down in the shade. Struck up a conversation with a couple of locals driving a pickup. One of them used to race cars in Reno before he had a serious accident - crashing during a race, rolling seven times, breaking his back in three places, and then later suffering a stroke. He now lives in the desert. The hot, dry air is good for his lungs.
Continuing north-east we passed by and through the Mojave National Preserve. Very hot. Very dry. Unlike Australian desserts which are mostly flat, the Mojave is quite mountainous. After peaking at 4,000 feet, we descended towards Las Vegas. Bumper to bumper traffic on the I-15 freeway. Very unpleasant in the heat. When Ann removed her helmet she was the brightest shade of red I have ever seen on any person. A pint or two of water was needed to cool her down.
After checking into the hotel and showering, we took ourselves for a ride through the middle of Las Vegas, passing the strip joints, pawn shops, drive through wedding chapels and casinos (the famous and not so famous). The traffic was unbearable. Must have been over a hundred sets of traffic lights and I think we stopped at almost every one of them. This time the temperature gauge hit the upper stop at 120 F. The chrome on the bike burnt through the denim of our trousers and scorched the skin on our legs.
Dinner in an air-conditioned restaurant, followed by loitering in an air-conditioned shopping centre until sunset gave us some relief from the heat. We'll start early tomorrow before the day gets too hot. Looking forward to seeing the Grand Canyon.
Early breakfast in the hotel this morning, then off to Las Vegas Harley-Davidson to join the group riding to the Grand Canyon. A couple of riders are already there and we wait for the rest to show up for an 8:30-ish start.
We make our way onto the I-15 heading north-east. About an hour and a half later we stop at Mesquite for fuel and refreshments. A short ride out of Mesquite and we cross into Arizona. Almost immediately the landscape changes from bleached, grey-brown rocky plains to brighter orange, brown, red and white sedimentary rock mesas and buttes.
We soon pass out of Arizona and into Utah. We stop in Washington, UT at Zion Harley-Davidson. Next stop is Hurricane for fuel.
From Hurricane we continue on Highway 9 towards Zion National Park. We stop for lunch and a rest in the village just before the entrance to Zion National Park.
Tex from Heavy Duty is leading us. We are supposed to meet him at the entrance to the park. Some of us wait in the shade of an RV while others go looking for him. The word goes out that Tex is waiting somewhere ahead inside the park, so we all set off. Ann and I are at the tail end of the group. By the time we get through the entrance we have lost sight of everyone so we carry on by ourselves.
Zion National Park is incredible. We wind through the park taking in the views. We catch up with a couple from France also riding an Ultra. We follow them through a tunnel cut in the rock.
After exiting the park we are greeted by a magnificent sight - buffalo. They have to be seen to really appreciate the size of them. They are huge, beautiful animals.
We continue on to Kanab, find our hotel and check in. It's been a long, hot day and the hotel has a swimming pool. We unload the bike and then go for a swim. We decide to take a walk through town and have dinner. We had a beautiful meal. Ann had trout and I had buffalo (cooked rare). We'll leave the Grand Canyon for tomorrow morning.
Up before sunrise this morning for an early start for the ride to the Grand Canyon. It's a cool morning. A great relief from the heat of the last three days. We dodge rabbits on the way to Jacob Lake. When we turn off at Jacob Lake for the Grand Canyon the sun is rising, but the temperature is getting colder. The country side has changed from desert to grasslands and pine trees. We spot deer on both sides of the road.
We were enjoying the cooler weather but it is now becoming very cold. The air temperature gauge has dropped to just a little above 40 F (4 C). We are wearing our summer riding gear and we are feeling the cold badly. We finally arrive at the Grand Canyon North Rim and warm up over breakfast.
After breakfast we take in the views. By the time the group is ready to leave, the sun and temperature have both risen. It's another very hot day. We head back to Jacob Lake for fuel and a cool drink, then turn onto US 89 Alt going east through Navajo Indian Reservation land.
We have a brief stop at Lees Ferry before getting back on the bike to cross the Colorado River.
It's a long hot ride through the valley and into Page where we stop for fuel and lunch. We lose the main bunch of riders in Page and ride alone to Kayenta where we catch up with them again. Ann had a few angry words with Tex, the ride captain, for losing us. He obligingly bent over and was lucky to only get his backside kicked. We ride on via Monument Valley and Mexican Hat to finally arrive at Bluff. It's been a long, hot, hard day of riding.
Another early start this morning. We eat breakfast at the hotel, fill up the tank with fuel and head east out of town on Highway 162. The country is changing. There is lush, green grass, and the hills are carpeted with green scrub. From a distance it looks like green fur.
In no time at all we are in Colorado, and in the distance, already, we begin to see what look like mountains - the Rocky Mountains. We are riding through Ute Indian Reservation country.
We stop for fuel and food at Cortez. One of the locals - an American Indian - admires the bike and is curious to know where we have come from and where we are going to. He wishes us well on our journey.
During the next leg of the ride, into Durango, we reach the beginning of the mountains that were on the horizon earlier this morning. We have a short stop in Durango noticing the signs advertising ski resorts and alpine vacation activities. Tall poles appear on the verges of the road - we guess to mark where the road is, and indicate how deep the snow is, in winter.
Heading for Silverton, we are now in mountain country. There are still patches of snow lying on the mountains, and the air has cooled considerably. The views are breathtaking.
We stop for a break and lunch in Silverton, a mining town nestled in a valley, and dwarfed by the mountains. After lunch, while filling the bike with fuel, a sherrif's car pulls alongside me and the bike. He calls out the window to me, saying, "Thanks for looking after my bike." I'm a little puzzled, thinking he's got a problem with me or the bike. Then I notice he is gesturing to the "John & Ann" lettering on the windshield. I ask if his name is John. He says that it is, and that his wife's name is Ann. I ask if he'd like to swap his sherrif's car for the bike with me for a week. He says that he's tempted, but had better pass on the offer.
We climb into the mountains again after refuelling and ride to Ouray, another beautiful little town cradled by mountains and filling a small valley. Just a short ride after Ouray to Montrose where we find our hotel and settle for the night.
We take US 50 out of Montrose this morning. We pass the Black Canyon National Park. The waterways are beautiful. They remind me a little of the Lake District in the north of England. First stop today for fuel is Gunnison. At least two dozen other bikers must be getting fuel here too. And there are plenty of bikes passing through town. Most will be on their way to Sturgis - like us.
From Gunnison we travel through mountains again (we're still in the Rocky Mountains). The countryside is lush and green. If this was Australia you'd swear it was coastal dairy country. But it's not. We are well inland, and at an altitiude of several thousand feet. We stop in Buena Vista for fuel.
We pass through more mountain country. There are ski resorts everywhere. Then the road becomes wider and the traffic becomes heavier. We are approaching Denver. We stop for lunch at Thornton, just past Denver. The sky over the mountains has turned black and there are flashes of lightning. The weather is hot and humid. Looks like a thunderstorm is heading our way.
About 25 km from Thornton, at Frederick, we spot a Harley-Davidson dealership. We turn off the highway to check it out. As we pull up the rain starts to fall. After picking up some souvineers we put on our wet weather gear for the last few miles to Cheyenne. The lightning is striking more often and closer, and the rain is heavy. We finally turn off the highway at Cheyenne and pull up at the hotel. The wind is blowing a gale. It's difficult to hold the bike up with each blast of wind. By the time we have checked in and unloaded the bike, the storm has passed. It is calm, hot, humid and sunny again.
Off to Sturgis today! It's a pleasant, cool morning as we set off on I-25 north. The sun is shining and a cool breeze is blowing. There are green and gold pastures stretching to the horizon on both sides of the highway. Occasionally a farm house, a barn, or a few trees appear, then nothing again but the pastures stretching over the hills.
The cool breeze turns into a howling gale. The wind is pushing us from side to side. Motorcycles now almost outnumber cars and trucks on the highway. We stop at Dwyer for fuel and refreshments. The wind is still blowing but not quite as badly. A man in the service station tries to pick Ann's accent. He asks if Ann is from down south. She says, "Yes, very south ... Australia." That cracks a few smiles and laughs.
We pass Fort Laramie historical site on highway 26, then turn north onto highway 85. Next stop is Newcastle. We stop here for lunch. Bikes now outnumber cars and trucks by at least two to one.
After lunch we're on the final run into Sturgis. The prairies have given way to hilly country and pine trees. Almost all traffic in both directions on highway 14A is motorcycles. We wind through Lead, Central City and Deadwood on our way to Sturgis.
Then, finally, Sturgis. Miles and miles of bikes. Everywhere. The noise is deafening. The noise is constant. You can feel the rumble of engines in your belly. It's great!
Just a short dash to Rapid City and back again to Sturgis today. We had intended to ride out to Mount Rushmore but half way to Rapid City realised that we'd left the National Parks pass in the cabin. So we changed plans and stayed in Rapid City for the day. We can go to Mount Rushmore tomorrow.
As we approached the Rapid City Civic Center we were directed to turn off into a car park. Harley-Davidson had taken over the Civic Center with an exhibition. Outside there were demonstration rides of the 2009 models, stunt rider exhibitions and a bunch of stalls selling T-shirts, pins, patches and lots of bike accessories. The credit card got a good workout.
We headed back to Sturgis late in the afternoon. Dark storm clouds were hanging in the sky. As yesterday, the traffic was thick and slow in Sturgis. About a mile from the Full Throttle Saloon, where we are staying, some drops of rain started to fall. About half a mile later the drops have turned to light, but steady, rain. At last we turn in and pull up in front of our cabin. The rain is now heavy. After Ann gets off the bike, the wind picks up and emergency sirens start screaming. They must be loud. They drown out the sound of V-twin engines. Someone says that there's a tornado passing through town! The gusts of wind nearly blow me and the bike over, but I manage to park it between two of the cabins so it's partially protected. Within fifteen minutes, it's all over. Steady light rain again. Half an hour later and the sun is shining, then nightfall.
We start the day with some friendly chit-chat with fellow travellers and friends outside our cabin at the Full Throttle Saloon in Sturgis. Everyone has recovered from yesterday's storm.
Today we take a ride out past Rapid City to Mount Rushmore, the Crazy Horse Memorial (which is still many years away from completion) and through Custer State Park where we come across wild buffalo. It's been a great day. No earthquakes. No tornadoes. Just a fantastic day seeing the sights in South Dakota.
It's time to move on from Sturgis. We've had a ball here. There have been many contrasts: the quiet, peaceful countryside where wild buffalo still roam, and the wild, noisy rally where you see the best and worst of biker culture. It's an experience that will never be forgotten by us.
So today we start our journey to Milwaukee - via Canada. We travel west on the I-90 and detour through Sundance to Devils Tower, the remains of a volcanic plug millions of years old. Leaving Devils Tower we stop to take a close up look at prairie dogs in the grasslands at the base of Devils Tower.
We ride on to Hulett for lunch and fuel. You get some feeling for the size of the Sturgis Rally when you see that Hulett - about 150 km by road from Sturgis - has been taken over by bikers. After lunch we make our way back to the I-90. The landscape is now mostly rolling hills of golden-brown grass. We have left behind the lush, green grasslands. As we travel west, the Rocky Mountains emerge on the horizon.
We pass an open-cut coal mine near Gillette. Soon we arrive at Buffalo where we stop for the night.
We're off to the Rocky Mountains again today as we slowly make our way northward towards Canada. It's very cold as we climb into the mountains north-west of Buffalo. We descend on the west side of the mountains into a very picturesque town called Tensleep. We stop at the Crazy Woman Cafe for breakfast.
After breakfast we continue west to Cody, named after Buffalo Bill Cody. The land is barren and scattered with oil derricks. It is hot by the time we reach Cody for lunch.
From Cody we head north up into the Rocky Mountains and travel Bear Tooth Pass to Red Lodge in Montana. The mountains are magnificent. We ride up through the snow line. Yellow, white, blue and purple wild flowers line the edges of the road. Crystal clear streams flow from melting ice and snow into small ponds and lakes. The mountains stretch forever. After a long day of riding we leave the mountains and find our way to Columbus for dinner and a much needed rest.
Today is day one of our new travel plan. We intend to ride an average of 400 km per day from here to Milwaukee, with a few rest days, and taking in the Canadian Rockies, Calgary for an oil change, and Niagara Falls. Our destination today is the first place on Highway 83 that has accommodation available.
We have breakfast in the hotel in Columbus after packing the bike. It's then a 260 km ride on I-90, US-89, and US-12 to Townsend. There is almost no traffic at all. For long stretches it feels like we're the only people on the highway. Farmland stretches over hills to the mountains on the horizon. It's beautiful countryside. Suddenly an aeroplane circles overhead in front of us. It comes low to our right and we wave to the pilot.
We fill up at Townsend. A local pulls up in his ATV with hunting dog and rifle. This really is America.
After refuelling we head north-west towards Helena. We then pass through state forest and find our way to highway 83. Black clouds are looming over the mountains and rushing across the hills towards us. Streaks of lightning are flashing from the black clouds into the trees. It's a good time to stop for lunch. The rain starts to fall while we're eating.
The rain stops. We turn up highway 83 and 14 miles later we stop at the Wilderness Gateway Inn in Seeley Lake. After dinner another storm front passes through with thunder, rain and lightning. It's a dramatic end to another great day.
I look out the hotel room window this morning and see a thick, grey fog hanging over the trees. It's a cool morning. We pack the bike and ride north through the fog. Ann is on "kangaroo watch" but she only spots deer. One large buck stands in the middle of the road and I brake hard to avoid him. All the practice dodging camels, dingoes, emus and kangaroos back in Australia has paid off. He runs off into the trees and mist with plenty of room to spare. The mist clears as we continue riding.
We stop for breakfast at Echo Lake. A couple introduce themselves to us. Turns out the man owns a Harley-Davidson delaership in Detroit. He provides some advice on roads to ride around the Great Lakes. We also meet up with some Corvette drivers. They enthusiastically show off their Corvettes to us: one 1964 model, one 1974 model, and one 2008 model. They are nice cars, but we're bikers. They say that we should ride through Glacier National Park - it's on our way to Canada.
We take the Corvette drivers' advice and take a right on US highway 2 towards Glacier National Park. We ride the Going to the Sun Highway through the national park. More spectacular Rocky Mountain views.
We leave Glacier National Park and ride north on US 89 to the Canadian border. We are now in the province of Alberta, Canada. Just a short ride and we stop in Cardston for the night.
Breakfast at the hotel this morning then on the road north out of Cardston. It's a sunny, cold morning. The wind is blowing strongly. We wind our way through farmland and with each turn we feel the wind shift. We pass by Glenwood, then Pincher Creek where we stop for refreshments and fuel. We find a warm spot in the sun away from the strong wind.
After warming up, it's back onto the bike. North and then north-west. We are following the Rocky Mountains and soon ride through Crowsnest Pass - cutting through the mountains. It is very cold and the wind is still blowing very strongly. We stop at Sparwood for fuel and take a look at "the world's largest truck".
Next stop - for lunch - is Fernie. It's a long ride following and criss-crossing Lake Koocanoosa and Columbia Lake to Fairmont Hot Springs for fuel. Then a short ride to Radium Hot Springs where we stop for the night.
We met up with a couple from Calgary in Radium Hot Springs. They rode with us today. We started by entering Kootenay National Park. Almost immediately we slow down for mountain sheep on the road. More spectacular mountain views. The Rockies keep on getting better.
After Kootenay National Park we rode to Lake Moraine. This is the highest lake in the Rockies. And the mountains here are at their highest point in Canada. We're at the top of the Rocky Mountains!
Next stop is Lake Louise. This is picture postcard scenery. The mountains, the glaciers, the rivers, the lake ... The beauty of the Canadian Rocky Mountains can't be described in words.
Our new Canadian friends, Andy and Lisa, invite us all to stay at their house in Calgary. We are very grateful. We follow them through Banff and then on to Tuscanny in Calgary.
A bit of a rest day for the bikes and us today. We have some breakfast and then Andy leads us to Calgary Harley-Davidson where the bikes are booked in for an oil change.
After dropping off the bikes we have some morning tea and then do a bit of shopping. Then back to Andy and Lisa's until the bikes are ready. We pick up the bikes in the early afternoon and say our goodbyes. The owner of the dealership comes by and spots the Queensland plates on the bikes. He knows the owner of our dealer in Maroochydore. Small world.
We find a hotel for the night and after photographing the local wildlife, have dinner. We plan to head south back into the USA tomorrow and then turn left for the ride to the Great Lakes.
Back to the USA today. We take highway 2 south from Calgary. First stop is High River for fuel, then back onto the highway. Next stop is the Nanton Air Museum. We spend at least an hour in the museum looking at the exhibits which include a Lancaster bomber amongst several other World War 2 planes.
Lunch is at Lethbridge. Then more riding through the prairies and oil fields to the US border. We cross without drama and refuel in the USA at Sweetgrass, Montana. While waiting in line for the toilet, a family ask me where I'm from and where I'm going to. A young boy, about 10 years old recommends Boston Pizza in Niagra Falls. After a drink of cool water, we're back on the road.
We stop at Shelby for the night.
We set off in the cool of the morning with the sun low in the eastern sky. Highway 2 runs mostly parallel with the BNSF (Burlington North Santa Fe) railway line. We wait at a crossing for a freight train as we leave Shelby.
There are fields of grain on both sides of the highway. Some fields are green with fresh growth, others are gold with ripe crops, and others are brown after having been harvested. Occasionally a large harvester can be seen harvesting the crops.
Freight trains are regularly travelling in both directions. Some are carrying grain, others are carrying industrial goods. We pass a train and wave to the driver. He waves back. We blow the bike horn. He blows the train whistle.
We stop at a diner in Chester for breakfast. After we sit down we hear an Australian accent from the table next to us. It's a 21 year old aviation engineer from Innisfail in Queensland. His name is Chris. He's shipping parts for crop duster aircraft back to Australia. He tells us about a bloke called Joel who runs a parts business in town. Joel restores old cars.
After breakfast we ride a block up to Flying Farmer Inc (Joel's business). Joel and Chris show us around the workshops and the restored cars. Joel has a real passion for these old cars. He is a master of car restoration.
Next stop after lunch is Havre. We spend some time in town. After calling ahead to our planned destination we find that all the hotels are booked, so we decide to stay in Havre tonight.
We've got to make up some time and distance today. We have breakfast at the hotel and leave about 7:30 AM. The sun is still low in the eastern sky, and the air is cool. Highway 2 still follows the BNSF railway line. And there are freight trains running by all day. This is called Hi-Line country. It is a beautiful rural area, and the people are great.
The countryside starts out as vast fields of wheat. This gives way to hillier, more arid country where beef cattle graze. Then greener, more fertile land supporting wheat again. Later in the day, when we cross into North Dakota, sunflowers are grown, and also some corn. It's farmland all the way today.
We pass through many small country towns. Our first stop for fuel is Glasgow, about 260 kms from Havre. There's not much left in the tank. We've made good time. Next fuel stop is Poplar, then on to Williston, in North Dakota, for more fuel and lunch.
Next stop is Minot for more fuel and a cool drink. Take off some layers of clothing - the day is hot - for the last stretch of the day. 884 km (552 miles) after leaving Havre, we pull up at the hotel in Devils Lake.
We're riding to Lake Superior today. We fill up the bikes with fuel as we leave Devils Lake. We ride to Grand Forks for breakfast. It's mostly farms growing wheat and sunflowers. The land looks greener. There are patches of swampy land between the farms.
The next stop is Bagley. We see fields of sunflowers that look slightly different to normal. The yellow flowers are covered with black marks. The black marks are moving, and then like a huge black blanket, rise up in the wind. There are thousands of starlings swarming around the sunflowers.
After refuelling we continue south-east. Gary, today's lead rider, suddenly stops. A bee has flown inside his shirt and stung him on the chest. We all pull over to make sure that he's okay. The countryside is now even greener again, and there are many more trees. We have pulled over by a small hill with a farm house on it.
We stop at Grand Rapids for lunch. Then a short ride to Superior.
Back into Canada today. Light breakfast at the hotel. Fill up the bikes with fuel, then over the bridge from Superior and ride through the north shore of Duluth. Robert Zimmerman (a.k.a. Bob Dylan) was born in Duluth.
Lake Superior is on our right. It looks more like an ocean than a lake. We pull into Gooseberry Falls State Park. Rays of sun are beaming through the clouds and onto the water. It's a beautiful sight.
Back on the road. Next stop for fuel and food is Grand Marais. We take a look around town. The weather might get a little cool as we ride around the top of the lakes so I get a warm hat.
We soon cross the border and we're back in Canada. Not far to ride and we're in Thunder Bay. We ride to the local Harley-Davidson dealer for some maintenance on the bikes. A light dinner tonight - just cheese and fruit.
Today was an interesting day. The scenery is magnificent. The contrast between the blue waters of Lake Superior and the green forests is stunning. But there are plenty of problems with businesses and services in this part of Canada.
This morning we rode back to the Harley-Davidson dealer with Rob who is travelling with us. We decided to get new tyres as the existing ones were getting down a bit. It took over four hours for the tyres to be replaced on both bikes. When test riding my bike, the dealer nearly crashed it. He was lucky to keep it upright as he accelerated onto the road and into gravel.
We refuelled and had some lunch in Thunder Bay, then rode out of town. Near Dorion we passed a Harley rider. He picked up speed and tagged along with us. Just a bit further on we hit road works and stopped. The other rider pulled alongside. He was a French-Canadian and said that he could not speak English. But he did manaage to tell us that he had come from the rally at Red Deer and that there was an Australian at the rally. He was on his way back home to Quebec.
Riding through the road works, the bikes got very dirty. It was gravel and mud. After the road works we passed through Nipigon. Our French-Canadian friend pulled off for fuel. More road works ahead. More mud. More dust. More gravel.
Shortly after getting through the second set of road works we pulled over to take in the views of the lake, and put on some more clothes. The wind is cold. Three bikes coming from the other direction pull in too. They are from Nebraska and are taking a week to travel around the Great Lakes. The French-Canadian rides by and waves. We wave back.
Back on the road I hear rattling noises from the bike. We pull off the road at Pays Plat Indian Reserve. Rob and I look under the bike and find that the rear wheel nut is loose. The rear wheel has moved forward, slackening the drive belt, which flaps and flicks with each gear change. We put the bike up on the centre stand that I had fitted in Rapid City. Ann goes looking for a piece of wood to place under the stand. This will raise the rear wheel off the ground for us to work on it. All trip Ann has been telling everyone to be careful of rattle snakes when they stray into bush or grass. Ann finds some wood, lifts it up, and shrieks. There's a snake. It's not a rattle snake. It's just a small, black snake that scurries off after being disturbed.
We work the wheel back into position and tighten the belt. Rob tightens the rear wheel nut properly. I test ride the bike. And then we're off again.
We stop for fuel at Schreiber. While there, a couple driving a restored MGT pulls in. They are driving it around the Great Lakes. They tell us about places to stop and see on our way to Niagara Falls.
It's getting late in the day now. The shadows are getting long. We're getting close to the time of day that moose could stray onto the road. We pick up speed to get to Marathon before sunset. We arrive at our cabin in Marathon. Rob notices that his rear wheel is hot. The rear brake has been locked on and is very hot. The Thunder Bay Harley-Davidson mechanic has botched the rear tyre replacement on Rob's bike too. We'll both need to work on our bikes tomorrow morning to make sure they're okay.
Time for dinner. We walk over to the restaurant next to our accommodation. The service is terrible. We place orders for drinks and our meal. About an hour later some of the drinks arrive. About ten minutes later some more drinks arrive. One drink has been forgotten. Some time later Ann's meal arrives. It is cold. Then my meal arrives. It's my main course. Maybe they forgot my starter? Or do they serve soup after the main course in this part of Canada? My main course is stone cold. Ann and I hand our meals back to the waitress. I pay for the drinks and we leave the restaurant.
We drop by reception and find the owner of Marino's - the restaurant. We tell him about the service. He blames the Canadian government's welfare system for the problem. He blames the lack of qualified people living in Marathon for the problem. He blames the government for not letting him bring in cheap labour from Israel. He tells us that he would not keep any of the staff he has hired if he had a choice.
We go to bed hungry tonight.
We start today chocking up Rob's and my bikes, and fixing the problems caused by Thunder Bay Harley-Davidson. My bike is easily fixed by realigning the rear wheel, and retensioning the drive belt. Rob's bike will need some more work. Looks like he will need to bleed the rear brake system, and replace the pads and disc.
We drop Ann off at the shopping centre in Marathon while we ride the bikes back about 50 km on the road towards Thunder Bay to take some photos of the lakes that we rushed by yesterday. After taking the photos we return to Marathon for breakfast.
First stop after breakfast is Wawa. We refuel at Young's General Store. About 15 km out of Wawa we enter Lake Superior Provincial Park. The sky is cloud free, the water looks clean and blue, and the sun is hot. We pull over at a beach near Crazy Woman River. I change into my board shorts and go for a swim in Lake Superior. The water is cold, and refreshing.
We continue on the road towards Sault Ste. Marie (pronounced soo-saint-marie). We stop for a short break at Pancake Bay. Not far now to Sault Ste. Marie. St Mary's river separates the Canadian part of Sault Ste. Marie from the US part of Sault Ste. Marie. The river runs between Lake Superior and Lake Huron. We cross the International Bridge from Canada into the United States to get to our hotel.
Fog this morning. I do some work on the laptop while Ann gets some retail therapy in the mall across the road. After the fog has lifted we pack the bike, refuel and head back to the International Bridge and cross into Canada. Seems like half the roads in Sault Ste. Marie are being repaired. We detour through back streets, across gravel and through dirt. Eventually we find highway 17 and start the ride around Lake Huron.
We only get a couple of glimpses of Lake Huron. Unlike the highway around Lake Superior, this highway does not hug the water's edge. The scenery is still good though. There's a greater variety of trees - some beginning to change colour as autumn approaches - and many more rocky outcrops. There are also many pretty small lakes and swampy marshes. Ideal for moose.
A short stop at Thessalon for fuel and a drink. Next stop is Lively. We have lunch here. Back on the road after lunch and we turn right onto highway 69 - heading south. More trees, rocks, marshland and lakes, and then we arrive at Parry Sound.
A leisurely start this morning. The sky starts a little cloudy, but soon clears. It's going to be hot and humid today. Fill up the tank with fuel, pump up the tyres, and pump up the rear shock absorbers.
We ride down the eastern side of Lake Huron passing a couple of small towns on waterways. We soon leave Lake Huron and head towards Lake Ontario. We stop at Barrie for fuel and refreshments. We decide to stop in Toronto for lunch.
As we approach Toronto the traffic gets heavier. We find our way into downtown Toronto and park the bikes. We have a very nice lunch. After lunch we go for a short walk around town. There is a strong smell of sulphur. It's very unpleasant.
We get on the bikes again and make our way onto the Queen Elizabeth Expressway. The traffic is very heavy. This is like riding in Sturgis except a hundred times bigger, and we're the only ones on bikes. The traffic crawls, stops and starts for over an hour as we head in the direction of Niagara Falls. We finally make it to St. Catharines - just a few kilometers from Niagara Falls.
Another great scenic attraction in North America: Niagara Falls. We ride the short distance into Niagara Falls and park the bike. First stop is the Skylon Tower where we get a bird's eye view of the falls and surrounding area. Next we walk down to the water and sail the Maid of the Mist up to the American and Canadian falls.
We wander about after the boat ride, and then have lunch at the Hard Rock Cafe. Another walk around town, and then back to the hotel in St Catharines for a much needed rest.
The weather forecast last night predicted a rain storm for today. It's warm and humid even though it's early in the morning. The sky is overcast and it looks as if the weather forecast will be right.
We ride west on the Queen Elizabeth Expressway towards Burlington. Lake Ontario is on our right. After crossing the James N Allen Skyway Bridge we turn left onto highway 403. We stop at Brantford for breakfast. We continue west after breakfast. The countryside is very much like England. Very green, farm land, and patches of light forest. The English heritage is obvious, not just in the appearance of the countryside, but also in the names of the towns and villages: London, Windsor, Dorchester, Belmont, Norwich, Salford, Watford, Warwick, and so on.
We turn off the highway and refuel at Strathroy. Then back on to the highway to Sarnia. At Sarnia we cross from Canada into the United States, yet again. The border runs through the St Clair River, which we cross on the Blue Water Bridge. To the right, Lake Huron is a calm, blue ocean of water.
It's then a bumpy ride on a poorly maintained highway 69 west to Flint, and then north to Birch Run. As the room at the hotel is not yet ready we ride to Shiawassee Harley-Davidson. We get the bikes serviced while there. How's that for service? Walk in off the street on a Sunday afternoon! Rob's rear brake is seen to and fixed properly as well. We get free hot dogs, donuts and drinks, and are made to feel very welcome. Shiawassee Harley-Davidson is a dealership that the Harley-Davidson organisation should be very proud of.
The rain that was forecast didn't come. The day ends in brilliant, warm sunshine.
A light breakfast this morning before wiping the dew off the bike. We fuel up and then head north. We ride through farmland. The barns and farmhouses look German. The first town we pass through is Frankenmuth. The streets are lined with brightly coloured flowers. Flowers are also hanging from pots and planters on buildings and lamp posts. The streets are spotlessly clean. German architectural style is visible in almost all the buildings. It's a beautiful little town.
More farmland after after Frankenmuth. We see deer in the fields. Gradually the farmland gives way to residential and industrial areas. We pass by Bay City and cross the Saginaw River that feeds into Saginaw Bay on Lake Huron.
An icy cold wind is blowing from the bay. We stop a few miles south of Tawas and put on some more clothes to get warm. While on the beach we meet a local couple, Ron and Mike. Ron is retired and lives on the bay. Mike bought a cabin from Ron and is here for his summer vacation. We then ride into Tawas to refuel the bikes, and have a drink and snack.
We ride straight through to Cheboygan. Occasionally we catch glimpses of Lake Huron. Most of the foreshore is privately owned land. There are houses, holiday flats, bed and breakfasts, small motels, and RV parks dotted all the way along the beach fronts of the lake. We stop for a late lunch in Cheboygan. There has been an increasing number of motorcycles on the road all day. Groups of bikes come through town while we eat lunch.
After lunch we ride the last few miles to Mackinaw City. Many bikers check into our hotel during the afternoon and evening. There are a lot of bikers in town.
It's a beautiful, sunny morning. We ride south on highway 31. There are more hills and bends on the road today. A much more interesting ride.
The traffic isn't heavy, but it is slow. We get off the main highway and onto the county roads just before Traverse City. Fill up with fuel at East Bay. Then its criss-crossing farmland and forests on the county roads, and through small towns until we rejoin highway 31 near Norwalk. The back roads make a pleasant change from highway driving. There is very little traffic and the roads are in good condition.
Back on highway 31 it's a short ride to the turn off for Ludington. The number of motor bikes on the road has increased. We arrive at Ludington and have lunch in town.
An early start this morning. We're sailing across Lake Michigan to Manitowoc. We ride the bikes to the port in Ludington and ride onto the SS Badger - the only coal-fired working ship in the USA. Lake Michigan is flat, calm and blue. It's a beautiful day to sail. We set ourselves up on the front deck. We sail at 15 knots. Four hours later we arrive at Manitowoc.
We ride off the boat and refuel. Then set off on Interstate 43 towards Milwaukee. We stop at Sheboygan for lunch. Our waitress will be riding to Milwaukee after her shift. A couple talk to us about the bikes and our travels. They own a scooter and restore old tractors.
Back on I-43 after lunch and it's not long before we reach Milwaukee. There are plenty of bikes on the roads. We catch up again with some of the Aussies who we haven't seen since the ride from LA to Sturgis.
Today we check out some of the Harley-Davidson 105th anniversary events in Milwaukee. First stop is Miller Park. There are some vendors selling and displaying biker clothes and bike accessories. The Harley Owners Group (H.O.G.) special event area has a queue of people about five wide and a half mile long waiting to get in. We decide to give that a miss and instead ride out to one of the Harley dealer events. As we leave Miller Park, Willie G. Davidson walks by us with his wife and bodyguard.
The House of Harley dealer has closed off a street and there are vendor tents and stalls set up with the usual collection of clothes and accessories. We spend a couple of hours checking things out.
Back at the hotel we meet up with some more Aussies and swap stories of our travels over the past four weeks. It seems as if everyone has had a really good time. Everyone has had good experiences meeting locals in the many towns and cities we've all visited in the USA and Canada.
In the afternoon we ride to Hal's - another Harley dealer - in New Berlin. Again, lots of vendors and lots of goodies for sale and on show.
Back to Hal's this morning with Rob to get his new GPS fitted to his bike. After Hal's, Ann and I ride out to Kenosha to check out J&M wireless equipment. Uke's is the Harley dealer in Kenosha. Like the dealers in Milwaukee, there are anniversary celebrations at Uke's. We have lunch and watch the Buell stunt riders perform, then head back to Milwaukee.
We meet up with Aussies again at the hotel bar. A lot of good friendships have been made on this trip. The 105th anniversary parade will be tomorrow and plans are being made for people to start the return trip to LA, or wherever, for the flights back home. We have dinner with Rob. It's time to think about our own ride back to LA.
Time to move on. Before leaving Milwaukee we visit the Harley-Davidson Museum. Ann tests a motorcycle. We'll see if Jason at Sunshine Coast Harley-Davidson can get one in for her.
We head south out of Milwaukee. We stop for fuel and refreshments in Shorewood and while there drop into Conrad's Harley-Davidson. While in Conrad's we look at the map and reprogram the GPS to take us on route 66. After a few miles on the freeway, we turn off onto route 66 at Gardner.
The old road is much more pleasant riding than the freeway. We stop at Dwight for the night.
After dinner last night we got into a conversation with a local. We asked him whether he could recommend any places nearby to visit. He said that there was nothing but corn and beans, and sometimes some wheat, for miles. Later, back in the hotel room, the phone rang. It was the local. He tracked us down and said that after talking to his father, we should stop by the
We set off on Route 66 this morning. First town on the road is Odell where we stop at the oldest, original gas station on Route 66. We then ride down to Pontiac and find our way to the Threshermen's Reunion. We spend several hours there talking to a local, rummaging through the flea market, inspecting the tractors and steam engines, and finally having lunch.
After lunch we fill the bike with fuel in Pontiac and then set out for St Louis. Last night's local was right - miles and miles and miles of corn, soy beans and occasionally, wheat. More fuel at Carlinville, and then we reach St Louis.
We need to get a move on. There's a lot of road to ride, and Hurricane Gustav has hit Louisiana. We ride alongside Route 66 on Interstate 44 today.
First stop is Pacific where we fill the bikes with fuel. Next stop is the Mule Trading Post in Rolla. The countryside is green and lush. Crop growing has given way to grazing - mostly cattle, but we also see some goats. The temperature is hot, and the air is humid. The sky in the south-east looks heavy with moisture. Not really clouds, just the look and feel of a heavy, wet atmosphere.
We stop for fuel in Lebanon. Then lunch in Springfield. Then more fuel in Joplin. It feels like we're playing tag with Gustav. No rain yet, but if we don't keep moving we're sure that the remnants of Hurricane Gustav will catch us.
We cross the border. We're now in Oklahoma. We stop in Tulsa for the night.
There's a storm front coming from the north-west, and the remains of Hurricane Gustav coming from the south-east. We leave early to miss the worst of it all. We fill up the bikes with fuel as we leave Tulsa before dawn.
We stop for breakfast at Grandma's in Stroud. Here we are joined by two locals: Leonard Compton and Jerry Murfin. Jerry restores old cars. Leonard works with car customizer, Gene Winfield, to design and manufacture fastback Mustangs known as the GT690GW Maybellene Series.
We refuel at El Reno. The weather is hot and humid. A short stop for souvineers at the Cherokee Trading Post near Clinton. We stop for lunch and more fuel at Elk City. After lunch clouds have filled the sky. The storm front from the north-west is approaching. After a few miles on the road the rain starts. We stop under an overpass and get the wet weather gear on. We ride through the rain. The wind has picked up and is pushing us around. As we approach Amarillo, the rain stops, but the wind is still blowing. The wet weather gear is harder to take off than put on.
It's cold this morning. Rob and I take the bikes for oil and filter changes at Trapp's Harley-Davidson in Amarillo. Service is friendly and fast. We're on the road again within an hour and a half of delivering the bikes.
We cross the border from Texas into New Mexico. First fuel stop today is San Jon. The landscape is changing from grassy plains to desert. The air is still cool. It's pleasant riding.
More stops at Tucumcari and Santa Rosa. The day is getting warmer. We see mountains in the distance to the west. We get closer, then climb into them. On the other side is Albuquerque. It is now hot.
We've planned to see the Petrified Forest National Park today. We have a leisurely start in the morning and head west out of Albuquerque after filling the bikes. We turn off I-40 following the Route 66 signs and end up on a dirt road. We see a couple of dogs (are they coyotes?) in the distance ahead. Rather than ride on dirt, we turn back onto the paved highway.
We pass through Grants and Gallup. Soon we cross into Arizona. Then we turn off to the Petrified Forest National Park. We have lunch here and refuel the bikes, then set off into the park. The scenery is incredible. This area is called the painted desert, and it's obvious from the colours how it's got this name.
It's late in the afternoon by the time we've ridden right through the national park. The colours are even more spectacular with the sun lower in the sky. We ride out of the park and on to Holbrook for our overnight stop.
We fill the bikes as we leave Holbrook. We ride west towards Flagstaff, passing Winslow and Navajo Indian Reservation land. At the edge of the desert, on the horizon, we see the San Francisco Peaks, the highest mountain range in Arizona. As we approach Flagstaff we pass through beautiful, hilly country covered in Ponderosa Pine. The edge of the road, and many of the fields and plains, are covered in beautiful, bright yellow wild flowers. We refuel in Flagstaff, in the shadow of Mount Elden.
A short way out of Flagstaff we stop for a short break at Grand Canyon Harley-Davidson in Bellemont. We pass by Williams and turn into Ash Fork for fuel. We leave the mountain country behind us and ride into hot, dry desert country again.
Following Route 66 we stop in Seligman for a snack and to check the souvineer shops. We ride on to Peach Springs and stop for lunch. The temperature continues to climb as we ride on. The land is barren, but occasionally there are large patches of bright yellow wild flowers. The contrast between the blue sky, the brown hills, the brown, dusty land, the green shrubs, and the bright yellow flowers is beautiful to see.
We arrive in Kingman in the early afternoon. A sign displays the time of day, and the temperature, 97 Fahrenheit (36 C).
Today we travel one of the best sections Route 66 has to offer - Oatman Highway. We head south out of Kingman and turn onto Oatman Highway, CR-10, a few miles out of town. First stop is Cool Springs.
Leaving Cool Springs we start to climb into the Black Mountains. Every turn brings new views of the mountains, valleys and desert. The sky is brilliant blue and the day is getting hot. The road winds around the hills. Sheer drop on one side. Mountain on the other. One hundred and eighty degree bends. After reaching the peak at Sitgreaves Pass, we start the descent into Oatman.
We ride into Oatman. It's still early in the day so the streets are fairly quiet. Even though Oatman is now a tourist town, there is still some feeling of the original town. Or maybe it's the smell of donkey poo and urine cooking in the hot sun that's ceating the old time atmosphere. In any case, we're glad to have ridden here and experienced this section of Route 66.
We leave Oatman and ride towards Golden Showers. In the distance we see the Colorado River - the border between Arizona and California. We turn off Route 66 and onto the I-40 highway to cross the river. We're now in California. We stop in Topock for a cool drink. Back on the highway we pass Needles where the forecast temperature today is 110 F (43 C).
We ride west through the desert, stopping often for drinks. We refuel at a gas station on Goffs Road near Essex in the Mojave National Preserve. We stop for lunch in Ludlow. The next fuel stop is Barstow. We stopped here for fuel on Day 2. We continue west from Barstow and pass the Edwards Airforce Base on our way to Mojave. We check-in to the hotel and cool off in the pool.
We have breakfast in Mojave, refuel the bikes and head off early in the morning. It is hot as we leave Mojave. We soon pass through mountains and the temperature drops dramatically. It is now very cold. Occasional patches of warm air convince us not to stop and put on warmer clothes. Eventually the sun rises high enough to shorten the shadows thrown by the mountains and we warm up.
We pass Tehachapi, Bakersfield and Shafter. We ride through mountain passes and desert. Out of the desert large areas of land are green with trees and crops - almonds, roses, corn, garlic, tomatoes, ... The desert is irrigated with water from the California Aqueduct.
We ride into Gilroy on the Pacheco Pass Highway. The scenery is beautiful. The grass is golden brown and the trees are lush green on rolling hills and mountains. Wind powered generators run along the top of mountain ridges. We have lunch in Gilroy. After lunch it's a short ride north on Highway 101 and Highway 85 to Los Gatos where we meet our friend Elaine.
Today is a "rest" day. We take ourselves into San Francisco. We visit Fisherman's Wharf and watch the sea lions at Pier 39. We do the usual tourist things in San Francisco - the Presidio, Hyde Street, The Embarcadero, Lombard Street, Macy's, Union Square, clam chowder, a cable car ride, and a street car ride.
We finish the day with a game of scrabble at Elaine's place.
Another day in the Bay area today. Ann has a day out shopping with Elaine and friends. I visit ex-colleagues at RSA in San Mateo and get some work done on my laptop in the hotel. We have dinner at Johnny Rockets in San Jose.
This morning we pack clothes and souvineers into a couple of boxes and take them to the post office. I take Elaine for a ride on the bike. She's a little apprehensive at first, but then I have trouble getting her off the bike. She loves it. She gets some strange looks from her neighbours.
About one o'clock in the afternoon we leave Los Gatos. We refuel the bikes on the way to Highway 17. We take Highway 17 south towards Santa Cruz. As we approach Santa Cruz we turn onto Highway 1. We will follow Highway 1 down the west coast to Los Angeles.
We ride past Monterey, and hit some traffic going through Carmel. The temperature has dropped since leaving Los Gatos. It is cold and the wind has a sharp bite to it. The coastal mountains are shrouded in mist.
After Carmel the traffic reduces, but the single lane each way on the winding coast road is slow going due to large RVs and cars towing caravans having trouble with the bends and climbs. The coastal scenery is magnificent as we ride into and out of Big Sur.
Near Limekiln State Forest the mist clears from the mountains and the sun shines from the western sky. The beaches are beautiful. As the shadows lengthen we ride through Morro Bay and turn towards San Luis Obispo. The sun sets shortly after we have arrived and checked into the hotel.
Today is the last long ride of the trip. We are returning to Los Angeles where we will clean and crate the bike before flying home on Sunday.
We refuel in San Luis Obispo and ride onto Highway 101. It is cool riding. The hills are covered in mist and clouds fill the sky. We follow 101 down to the coast. We pass Pismo Beach, Arroya Grande, Santa Maria, and Los Alamos, and then turn onto Highway 154. This takes us through some beautiful mountain country and past the Cachuma Recreation Area.
We ride through San Marco Pass. Santa Barbara and the Pacific Ocean are below us. We ride into Santa Barbara and stop for fuel and a drink. We are now back on Highway 101. We see oil rigs out in the sea as we follow the coast towards Ventura.
We soon reach the city limits of Los Angeles. The traffic is constant, heavy and fast. We turn right onto Interstate 405 towards Long Beach and LAX Airport. Soon after passing the airport we turn onto Interstate 110 towards Los Angeles Harbour, and then we follow Highway 47 to San Pedro where we stop at our hotel. Riding through LA traffic is stressful, but we did it safely and soundly.
We start the day with breakfast in the hotel. Ann is booked on the hotel bus to go out to a shopping centre for the day. Rob and I wash our bikes and ride them across the bridge over LA Harbor to the warehouse where we crate them up. The bikes are now waiting to be loaded into a container and shipped back home.
I pick up a rental car from Long Beach Airport. We'll be using it to get around LA for the next couple of days. We meet up with Ann after her shopping expedition.
Today starts with breakfast in the hotel. After breakfast drive to Long Beach for our last shopping expedition. We buy some suitcases. Tonight we'll be collecting boxes of stuff that we've been posting to our friend Barbara from Huntington Beach. We will pack them into the suitcases before we leave for home.
We have lunch in Long Beach and on the way back to the hotel detour via the Queen Mary. We unload at the hotel, get cleaned up and changed, then head out to a restaurant in Long Beach where we meet Barbara, Jacques and Travis for dinner. We have a friend from San Jose - Pate - who is visiting her parents in Long Beach. After dinner we all go to Pate's parents' house for dessert. It is very late when we get back to the hotel
Last day in the USA. Tonight we will fly home. We ride out to Hollywood to see the famous sign on the hill through the smog. We drive through some expensive looking areas and then head for Venice Beach.
Ann and I were last in Venice Beach about ten years ago. We are shocked and disappointed to see how it has changed. It is a filthy, seedy area now. We don't spend much time here at all. We drive towards the airport and find a diner for lunch. After lunch we continue to the airport and return the rental car. Then we check-in and wait for our flight home.
The flight is long, as expected, and comfortable enough. Ann and I get some sleep and survive the flight in pretty good shape. Rob got a "good" seat. He's got an exit row with miles of leg room and an empty seat next to him. The down side of the good seat is that the toilets are right across the aisle from him. He gets lights flashing in his face, people stepping on his feet, and the smell of freshly dumped human waste wafting by him all night.
The flight lands in Brisbane at 6:10 AM on Tuesday. We've lost a day crossing the International Date Line. It's a sunny, humid, warm morning - typical of Brisbane. Thee are no dramas going through customs and immigration. Mal collects us from International Arrivals and drives us home.
So that's it - the vacation is over. We've had a great time. I think the best holiday that we've ever had. We've seen some amazing places and met lots of good, interesting and friendly people. We've visited old friends, and made new friends.
Our new friends include Rob - "the little black duck" - from Beenleigh, Gary and Robyn from Townsville, and Andy and Lisa from Canada. Jason from Sunshine Coast Harely-Davidson provided us with T-shirts for Milwaukee, and the whole team at Sunshine Coast were fantastic with preparing and crating the bike for the trip. Thank you to Elaine for looking after us in Los Gatos, and thank you to Barbara, Jacques, Travis, Pate, Doug, Bill, Esther, Randy and Suzie for your friendship.